One of my favorite artists, Charlotte Salomon, posed this question: is it life? Or is it theater? She made around 800 small gouache paintings depicting her tragic life and secured it in a book.
In 2007, I visited Amsterdam. I was traveling by myself and staying in a hostel. It was cheap and clean and cramped. I shared a bunk bed in a room the size of a large closet with 2 additional bunk beds. I was the only American and, surprisingly, the oldest traveler. There was the lone ginger-headed and cheerful Aussie teen girl who slept on the bottom bunk. There were the Aussie brother and sister sharing another bunk and a young English couple who tittered when I said “cell phone” rather than “mobile”. Behind their backs, the Aussies called them “the Limeys” in a way that seemed almost affectionate rather than derogatory.
Charlotte Salomon’s precious book is held in the Jewish Historical Museum in Amsterdam. When I made my plans to go to Amsterdam, this was one place I had to go.
My hostel was farther into the city and it took 2 zones worth of strippenkart to get to the museum, only to walk a few blocks and find the building composed of multiple old synagogues. After searching through the religious artifacts, that were symbolic that they survived the Holocaust, I found no sign of Life? Or Theater?
It was only a glance in a corner when I came to the realization that the exhibition was going through remodeling and the book was not in fact on display. I took a step beyond a velvet rope in hopes to sneak a glance at the book. I longed to experience its momentum through its mass and size.
It was not there.
Instead an empty glass case only hinted at its former occupant.
I suppose I could have spoken up and pleaded and asked the museum staff if I could see the paintings since I had come so far to visit it. But I didn’t.
I picked up a CD of its digitized images in the gift shop. The middle-aged woman who worked at the gift shop was intrigued by my presence and I could feel her gaze on my back as I looked at postcards: we rarely see young people here. Even when paying for a bookmark and the CD, I could tell she wasn’t sure what language to speak. Dutch? Hebrew? English? She smiled kindly to me when I spoke English, as I only knew a handful of basic Dutch formalities, my Hebrew non-existent.
When I left the museum, I had a tiny bit of disappointment. I didn’t get to see the famous piece that resonated with me. I traveled over 5000 miles to see a piece of art that wasn’t there.
In its own trickery and timing, something surfaced within me. I felt the elusive quality of life’s events. This was a taste. A tease.
Sometimes things just don’t work out. Sometimes things just don’t make sense.
I ask myself everyday though, not necessarily intending to receive an answer: so what is it then? Is it life? Or is it theater?
Postscript: on this same trip, the Rijksmuseum was also going through remodeling, so I saw little of that one too. However, the Anne Frank House and the Van Gogh Museum were awe-inspiring. I also found out recently that the Dutch no longer use strippenkart to take the tram. It was basically a line of skinny perforated tickets that got stamped with times and then torn off when expired. It seemed a bit old-fashioned at the time, but now knowing I have unused tickets hiding somewhere in my belongings makes me feel like I have a piece of something historic.